Tudor: This name brings to mind images of larger-than-life English royals such as Henry VIII and Elizabeth I. This is where the iconic watch brand draws its name from. The English Renaissance (when the Tudors ruled) was a time of artistry and revolutionary movements, making the Tudor name perfect for a watch brand dedicated to the same principles.
Tudor’s Origins
The year is 1926. Hans Wildorf, the founder of Rolex, is looking to bring his cutting-edge watchmaking techniques to a new, more affordable realm. Wildorf wants Rolex’s artistry and innovation to be accessible to the common man, so he founds the Tudor company to convey his idea of a great artistic shift in the world of horology.
He chooses the Tudor name because it harks back to 1500s England (Wildorf’s homeland), a time of significant religious, political, and artistic change and enlightenment. Tudor’s earliest models feature the first iteration of its logo, a shield with the iconic Tudor Rose in the center.
At this point, Rolex was already a mighty name among watch brands, but its fine materials and custom movements made the price point out of reach for many. Wildorf used off-the-shelf movements and omitted precious metals when creating the Tudor brand, allowing the watches to include all the innovations and quality of Rolex without the hefty price tag.
Rolex Connections
Tudor’s earliest models greatly resembled Rolex’s designs because the brand borrowed Rolex’s cases and bracelets. Tudor’s movements were ready-made, so these models were almost considered a way for the general public to afford a Rolex watch. Despite the lack of precious metals, all Tudor watches were known for their beauty—their brushed finish created a highly sophisticated appearance.
Tudor continued to grow in the shadow of Rolex when it debuted its Oyster collection in the 1940s. The Oyster case, a waterproof and dust-proof design, had previously been exclusive to Rolex. Its introduction within Tudor’s lineup meant more people could afford an incredibly durable timepiece that wouldn’t require frequent watch repairs to clean out water damage and dust residue.
Rolex’s influence persisted into the ’50s when Tudor released its first automatic model, the Prince. Although the Prince’s self-winding mechanism was originally designed by Rolex, it was one of the first automatic watch models accessible to the public.
Two years later, the Tudor Submariner entered the market. Following Rolex’s Submariner, this diving watch featured luminescent markers and an early chronograph for tracking dive times. Tudor’s Submariner emphasized durability and precision at a more affordable price than Rolex’s model.
Finding Tudor’s Unique Identity
Though copied from Rolex, the Submariner was Tudor’s catalyst for creating its own identity. Tudor watchmakers recognized that, despite the Submariner’s glowing markers, divers could benefit from more light in murky waters. In 1969, Tudor debuted its first Submariner with thick hands, diamond-shaped tips, and square hour markers. Now, instead of squinting to find a thin, glowing hand, Tudor wearers would have no problem finding the time.
These “snowflake” hands began as a simple addition to improve functionality, but Tudor soon found that they had become a unique and iconic symbol of the brand’s commitment to innovation and performance.
The ’60s also marked a decade of growth and prestige. The French Navy saw the quality and utility of Tudor’s watches and partnered with the brand to supply its divers with affordable and reliable diving watches.
By this point, it was obvious that Wildorf had been successful in his venture to build a brand that focused less on luxury and more on utility. Tudor’s dive watches were world-renowned, both for the quality that had begun with Rolex and for its innovations unique to the Tudor brand.
Tudor Today
By the start of the 21st century, Tudor had partnered with the Italian, Canadian, and U.S. Navies, which all used Tudor’s exceptional diving watches. With the onset of smartwatches, Tudor responded by launching its “Born to Dare” campaign, partnering with celebrities like David Beckham and Lady Gaga to create a fearless, bold, and daring new rebranding.
Today, Tudor has created a unique branding: it draws inspiration from its earliest days while continuing to adapt to a changing world. While the snowflake hands fell out of favor in the ’80s, Tudor has embraced the look once more, and now it’s almost impossible to imagine a Tudor dive watch without the iconic diamond-shaped hands. It has also released watches paying homage to its roots with models like the Black Bay 58 and the Tudor 1926.
While Tudor began as a subsidiary of Rolex and struggled for years to break away from the watchmaker giant’s shadow, it’s now an incredibly well-respected brand in its own right. Tudor’s watches are worn by the general public, soldiers around the world, and auto racers in the FIA World Endurance Championship.
Tudor’s reputation for reliability and general excellence makes it an extremely popular brand for watch enthusiasts everywhere. Tudor watch repair shops recognize the brand’s quality, and its innovations continue to excite members of the worldwide horological community.
